Dire Straits in the Sahara

Day 5: Distance: 80K, total elevation gain: unknown. Temperature: holding steady (note: as I write this it is Day 6).

Yesterday’s run was a microcosm of life. Huge emotional peaks and troughs, elation, astonishment, dread, fear, thoughts of feeling invincible. What an epic trip. I woke feeling like I got hit by a truck — several days of hard running were starting to take their toll — legs swollen, groggy, irritated, sore. For logistics reasons we had a two wave start. The slower folks starting at 5 A.M. and the top half of the field at 7. We left Camp Viper and the sun hit us within an hour (I’ve been naming the camps — thus far it’s been: Camp Magic, Camp Sand Storm, and Camp Viper — after the local inhabitants).



Out in the desert with no one else around...
Photo by Chris Lusher / Racing the Planet.

I knew that I had to get my head wrapped around the heat today. With our late start we’d be running all day through the gauntlet of heat — I didn’t realize how tough that would prove to be.

After an hour or two I was in my groove. Early on in the event I bonded with my Gregory pack and was able to get a nice rhythm going — the pack felt like it was one with my efforts. I taped my back pre-race to prevent chafing — impossible to not get chafed without tape) and as long as I distributed the weight properly there were no issues. When I don’t think about a piece of gear when I race, I know it’s a good one.




On the constant lookout for checkpoints...
Photo by Chris Lusher / Racing the Planet.

Despite my fatigue I popped off the first 40 K with relative ease — my mantra was — patience. At that point they had two mandatory stops of 45 min. each. I used these to eat, hydrate and organize my food and mind for the second half of the day. This next section proved to be several hours of very challenging mental negotiation.

This section was not only the toughest terrain we’d done thus far, but it was in the Black Desert. We ran across silver/black limestone and lava rock and sand. It was like running in a cast iron frying pan. My blood sugar was on edge as I had been running out of food and had to ration. After five days of running, you’re pretty much going on fumes and have to keep a steady drip of fluids and calories flowing in order to keep moving.



Keeping cool...
Photo by Chris Lusher / Racing the Planet.

I focused on patience while timing sections of the course to estimate my arrival at checkpoints. One of the difficulties running in this environment is the ability to see for long distances to the next change in terrain. You run to that rise or dip, 20, 30, 50 min. or more, hopeful that you might catch site of a familiar flag or tent designating a checkpoint.

If I knew by my watch that I had a certain amount of time until I would see my next waypoint, I would not get my hopes up as I crested a hill or dune. I’d just keep pressing on. The heat and terrain in this desert can make one insane. I knew I had reached an edge when I started to talk out loud to myself and to the sun.

“Mother f...er you need to go down, leave me be!” I would scream, then I would laugh hysterically. “I’m losing it.” Then. “Keep going, keep pressing, light feet, steady. You’re ok; you’re fine. It’ll be ok.”

This went on for hours as I could not see a soul in front or behind — it was just me and the indifferent sun.

To take my mind off the struggle I took pictures, as this terrain is spectacular — strong and harsh — daunting. With 30 K to go I hit a trough and a checkpoint. I executed my usual routine, fill bottles, get passport signed, guzzle extra bottle, pour water on head. I carried an extra bottle with me to use to spritz my head. It’s important to keep your head wet in the desert. Even a light dousing goes a long way in keeping the stress level down.

I noticing I was breathing heavy at this checkpoint — erratic and labored, my heart rate was maxed and my legs felt like Jell-o. To blow off some steam I allowed myself a moment as I plopped down in a chair and started sobbing. “It’s freaky out there, really freaky.” My voice shaking. “I’m watching myself run through hell. Hot. Need sun to go away. Need sun to go down. Need to leave me alone.”

Thirty seconds and I was good to go. I asked for a hug from the staff — I needed to feel like someone cared but me. I told them I was fine and not to worry. I stood up and trotted off. Back in the game.

What a unique test. So many struggles and highs. So many opportunities to fail; yet I pressed on. I feel pleased in the way one might be after overcoming a long-standing personal struggle or surviving a hard fought battle.

This one definitely threw back the margins in my life. And for that I feel privileged.

We have a stunning view from Camp 6 — looking down on yesterday’s course. We are here until tonight; then we’ll be bussed to our last 10 K stage near the pyramids. I am dreaming most of all for a cold shower.

Back at you in Cairo.
Terri

Editor's Note: Terri won the women's division for stage 5 and is poised to run away with the woman's overall title.

Running on Empty

Day 4
Distance: 41K, total elevation gain: 671 feet, temperature: holding steady. (Water and other drinks the race trucks were carting on top of their vehicles were exploding due to the heat. The water we are drinking is hot – you could make tea with it. The race organization was actually considering canceling sections of the race due to the heat…)



The temperature is dangerously hot...
Photo by Chris Lusher / Racing the Planet.

I slept outside last night and it was heaven. We woke to a relatively cool breeze to prep for a 5:30 AM start. Another magical moment as we started up a couple of sweepy sand dunes in the dark to a plateau where we ran flat for about 20K. The wind blew cool, stars were strong with a sliver of moon. I trotted along in the dark and felt quiet and content. Ah – a perfect moment in time.



Sunrises in the Sahara are orange and bright...
Photo by Chris Lusher / Racing the Planet.

The sunrises here are orange and bright. As soon as the sun hits the earth where we run it heats up, but today we had a strong wind to cool us a bit. We headed into the Black Desert today – terrain changed up several times as well as the surface on which we ran. The Black Desert has silver limestone and black lava rock as well as the usual copious amounts of sand. I felt steady and strong with the legs starting to tighten a bit toward the end. This is the first day I’ve finished and not felt as though my brain has been fried. But then there’s always tomorrow.


The ubiquitous sand coupled with black lava rock...
Photo by Chris Lusher / Racing the Planet.

They are starting us tomorrow – our 80K day – with a staggered start. For logistics reasons, slower runners will start at 5 AM and faster at 7 AM. Bummer. I’m not real happy about this – it means that we’ll do most of our running through the heat of the day – they are anticipating the top runner to take 13 hours to finish this day. They will have two mandatory stops for 45 minutes each – for safety reasons. These will be in a village with a tea hut and a cold spring – ah….

I am concerned about tomorrow partly because of the heat and partly because I’m running out of food. I need to focus on being smart and steady – the heat here can really mess with your head.

What an epic journey.

Back at you tomorrow,
terri

Leading the Way Across the Sahara

Terri Schneider completed the third stage in four hours and 12 minutes, the 10th person to finish the stage. Today in stage four, she was the first woman to cross the finish line.

We are still waiting to hear from her and get the latest dispatch. Understandably, she's probably a bit tired!

-- MountainZone.com Team

An Unnatural Act

Day 1, evening:
We camped on Day 1 among countless limestone towers that had been carved over thousands of years by the wind. They stood like majestic chess men. Locals from the region through which we are moving, Farafra, built a bonfire for us and served us mint tea. They then shared the history and geography of their region. While we took it all in, we laid on the warm sand among the chalk sculptures and gazed at the star-filled sky. I had to remind myself that I was in the Sahara. It was a magic moment for sure. The night was so hot I couldn’t even sleep on top of my sleeping bag – I thrust it aside and plopped down on the tent canvas. Again, telling weather for things to come…


Day 2:
Distance: 42K, total elevation gain: 296 feet, temperature: holding steady at 110-115 degrees Fahrenheit.


Locals shared the history and geography of the region. Photo by Chris Lusher / Racing the Planet.

We are getting unusually high temps for this time of year here – go figure. Even the folks who have done similar type events – Gobi March, Marathon de Sables etc, have been commenting that the sun here is the most brutal they experienced. Amen.

We started at 7 in the morning and were able to pop off a couple hours before the sun really hammered us. I felt 100% better than yesterday until about 8k to go. We traversed beautiful sand dunes and rock formations. I was then reduced to walking at the end in very soft sand, chalk and shale, in
unrelenting, inescapable heat. I am shocked at the intensity of the sun here. It comes from above and reflects off the white sand or limestone to hit you hard. When running, I dream of the shade while trying to focus on what I’m doing. When I finish and lie in the shade it still feels as though the sun is beating down...I open my eyes to see if there is a stray stretch of sunlight hitting my skin but – nothing – only irrepressible heat.


Limestone towers carved against the sky. Photo by Chris Lusher / Racing the Planet.

To be an ultra athlete you gotta be willing to strip down to the raw wood beneath the veneer, because running this far in this environment is a pure but unnatural act. There is a power in the risking though, especially for a dream that no one sees but you.


I’m feeling nervous about our long day (50 miles) with a guaranteed run through the heat of the day. I’m not sure how that will play out but I’ll give it a solid go.


Eventually racers are reduced to walking through the chalky sand. Photo by Chris Lusher / Racing the Planet.

Off to bed after shoving down my dehydrated meal…

Back at your tomorrow.
Terri

Meltdown in the Sahara

Our 7 hour bus drive to Camp 1 was relatively uneventful barring the military check points. At a few of the way points, there was some negotiation going on with our local escorts before they would let us through. We have an entourage of military folks following us through the race packing some serious weapons. They are here for our safety. The camp was excellent with our last real meal for a week. My tent mates are all excellent folks and come from: Taiwan, Singapore, Ireland, South Africa, UK, Russia and U.S. A great group. It was extremely warm sleeping – which was a sign of what was to come...

Day 1: Distance 32 kilometers, total elevation gain: 101 feet, temperature: 110-115 F in the shade. Racing the Planet had the highest drop out rate of any leg of their events today. With the exposure, soft sand and temperatures that had everyone feeling like running on solar panels the carnage was severe. Even the locals were feeling as though it was a “hot day” here in the Sahara.


The start. Photo by Chris Lusher / Racing the Planet.

The first 10K section was nice, easy running. I settled into my pack and with a few small, on the go, adjustments, I got a nice easy trot going. As the sun rose higher, the pace started to slow, then to a walk, then to a bit of a stagger. We could see our check points for an hour or so at a stretch and there was no hiding from the sun. One fellow running near me stopped and tried to hide under a shrub. The medical truck was alerted and came to fetch him. He was one of many who were pulled off the course for heat issues. There were a few moments when actually I doubted myself – which was quite frustrating.


Battling heat and soft sand. Photo by Chris Lusher / Racing the Planet.

The heat was completely consuming – I’ve never experienced anything quite like it. I was having trouble keeping my thoughts clear and positive. Despite my strong effort for the day, it took its toll. I am recovering well though and I am looking to the long week as a slow test.

We went through the white desert today. The rock formations and expanses of white sand and limestone likened to a stroll on the moon. Those who pressed on to finish were amazing – coming into the finish through 7pm (after a 9 am start time). This is as hearty a group of athletes as I’ve come across. I’m inspired.


Runners nearing finish. Photo by Chris Lusher / Racing the Planet.

Tomorrow we go longer. I’m a bit nervous. I’m hopeful that I start to acclimate in a day or so and feel a tad better running.

Back at you tomorrow
Terri

Editor's Note: Send Terri notes of inspiration. Click here!

Getting Ready in Cairo for the Sahara

I've been in Cairo for 24 hours. Due to registration, race meetings, resting and sorting through gear, I haven't even left the hotel. Trying to shave the weight down in my pack even more...(Read the previous blog post for a list of Terri's gear).

We are being bussed to the race start - about 150 miles south/west of Cairo where we will camp. The race starts tomorrow morning (sunday). The race website will be giving live updates on the race every 2 hours as well as other info on the event. You can also send me emails! Would love to hear from you all.

We turned in our luggage and excess gear and are now pack only - I love the simplicity of that - once the extraneous stuff is gone - it's easier to focus on the task at hand.

More after our first running day. Back at you from the desert.

xoxo
Terri

Gear List for Running the Sahara

Gear/Food List for Racing the Planet, Sahara Desert, Egypt.

My name is Terri and I’m a gear freak. For those with similar addictions, reap the benefits of my research and ongoing, destructive, product testing. Within the religion of going light and fast, this stuff works and I’ve spent way too much time thinking it all through to not share the wealth with you all.

In any case, I’m stuck with this stuff in the Sahara Desert for 7 days. The list is detailed, but for those of you thinking about doing some ultrarunning, fast-packing, ultra-triathloning or just crazy, cool, adventures where you wish to stay strong, go light and be coherent – it’s a solid reference.

Mandatory Equipment List (this are items required by the race organization):

My gear choices and why:

Backpack – Gregory, ISO, 20 liter. After scouring the Summer Outdoor Retailer Tradeshow for the perfect pack for this race, the ISO came out on top. This event will be a product test of this pack. It will be in shops in ‘06.

The ISO is ultra-light, compact, comfortable with all the features necessary for an event of this type—including:
• mesh pouches on both sides of the pack for bottles. mesh zipper pouches on both sides of the waste belt for easy to reach running food and camera
• small, thin and light compression straps
• rear zipper opening to allow you to refill your water bladder without removing the bladder from the pack
• Shoulder straps that are padded without overkill
• outer expandable compartment that zips closed when not in use
• NO extra/unnecessary bells and whistles. Simple, complete, ultralight.

If you want to go fast with excellent capacity – this is the perfect pack.

Sleeping Bag – Montbell, Super Stretch Down Hugger #5. Packs shockingly small, hugs the body for extra warmth, Minimum Temp: 28.4F, Total Weight: 1 lb 10 oz, Insulation: 650 Fill Down.

Headlamp and back up headlamp – Petzl Myo XP and a tiny pen light. The XP is light and small yet lights up the woods at night with 3 lighting levels. It uses 3, AA batteries that last for up to 170 hours – huge bang for its size, no need to bring back up batteries.

I may need my main light for our 50 mile day so it needs to be bright enough to run with. Got the smallest pen light I could find at a drug store.

NOTE: I used 2 Myo XP’s on a waist belt for Western States 100 – the battery packs as well as lights slid right onto a piece of tubular webbing attached with a fastex buckle.

Compass – my compass is in my HighGear Axis watch.

Safety pins (20)

Knife – Spiderco Ladybug – I will actually be using my knife in this race so I wanted one that would cut plastic, tape and fabric repeatedly, yet was light and small…it’s very cute as well :)

Whistle – The smallest I could find – a piece of mandatory gear that will probably get a ride through the desert without ever being touched – BUT a good thing to have along in a pinch

Space blanket – Smallest – good chance this will get used. Always carry a space blanket in any wilderness adventure. I have used mine countless times and it’s saved me from potential hypothermia. They are uncomfortable, non-breathable and loud, but are an excellent vapor barrier.

Signaling mirror – A small piece of plastic mirror made for backpacking. I bought the full mirror at an outdoor store and chopped a small piece off - a piece of mandatory gear that will probably get a ride through the desert without ever being touched - BUT a good thing to have along in a pinch.

Baseball cap or similar – Outdoor Research Solar Roller Hat; wide brim, lightweight –more coverage than a running hat, yet light and breathable – also SPF 30.

Sunglasses – Revo wraparound glasses with polarized lenses.

Windproof Jacket – Ultra-lightweight Patagonia Dragonfly – 4 oz. – packs into a bundle small enough to fit in your fist. Serious warmth from a feather weight jacket. This one saved my ass while sleeping on a jungle floor in a rainstorm in Fiji.

Running/Trail Shoes – Montrail, Hardrock – never leave home with out ‘em. I’m using a half size bigger than what I train in to accommodate for foot swelling. My all time favorite shoe. Stable, comfortable and bombproof on crappy terrain. These absorb a lot of foot shock – even with a heavy pack on. I used them recently/comfortably to climb part of Mt. Shasta while carrying a 40lb pack.

Electrolytes for 7 days – Succeed Electrolyte tabs – enough to take 1-2 every hour or so while running – these tabs have the highest grams of sodium and potassium per capsule so I can carry less and take them less often – also see recovery drink...

Blister Aid Kit –

- Injinji tsoks – what a cutting edge product! Each toe has it’s own little,
dry, friction-free, space in which to move and be happy.

- Elasticon tape – 3” – for heels - a few feet or so wrapped around a chopped off chopstick.

- Leukotape – 1.5” – for heels - a few feet or so wrapped around a chopped off chopstick.

- tincture of benzoin (put this on the skin before the tape job and the tape will stick for a few days).

- Silicon gel caps (3) – for 2 toes that always seem to blister no matter what.

- Hydropel – lubricates as well as keeps moisture out

- Engo pads – these are wrapped around the heel cup of my orthodics for a frictionless surface: to prevent sub-callous-deep-heel-blisters from forming (the religiously-painful kind). You can use these pads for any part of your shoe that creates excess friction or tension. Finally a pad to modify the actual shoe – NOT the foot!

7 day supply of food (the race requires that we bring a minimum of 2000 calories per day; I will bring approx. 2000 cal. per day plus running food. A typical day looks like the following:

- Breakfast: Alpine Aire dehydrated eggs or omelet or hot cereal, luxury item: Peets coffee, creamer (small metal mesh cup for brewing coffee)

- Running calories (approx. 1000-1500 per day – more for the 50 mile day): Carbo Pro and Perpetuem powders – both will be mixed into a thick paste and put in separate gel flasks (simple functional calories). I’ll be product/heat testing Clif Blocks (yummy new product – thanks Clif!), Gu2O sports drink (light and easy to put down when warm), water (provided by race organization). I may eat some of my snack foods if my stomach is off a bit.

- Post Run Recovery (taken immediately following each day of running: Ultragen recovery drink (2 scoops – 320 calories) mixed with packet of Oral Rehydration Salts (the Salts are like taking an oral IV – sodium 3.5 g., potassium 1.5 g. and glucose 20 g.). Ultragen has the perfect 4/1 ratio of carbo/protein as well as a serious dose of minerals, vitamins and electrolytes – a perfect recovery drink with a light clean flavor easy to toss down in a few minutes.

- Post Run Snacks: soup powders with cous cous added (chicken, split pea, corn chowder, miso – soup is my comfort food), Alpine Aire dehydrated soups or Ramen Noodles. Luxury items: almonds, potato chips, sunflower seeds. Herb tea.

- Dinner: Alpine Aire dehydrated meals of various types, as well as mashed potatoes, brown rice.

Other Equipment I’ll Bring:

1 running shirt – Patagonia Airius short sleeve T-shirt

1 running short – Patagonia long haul runners

1 long sleeve shirt – Patagonia Airius long sleeve-T

1 tights – Patagonia Silk weight Capilene

Note: I am planning on starting in the short sleeve/leg stuff and lots of sun screen because this is how I am most comfortable in a hot climate (allowing air to flow over skin). I will wear long stuff at night and “wash” running clothes. If I get fried too badly, I can run in long sleeves and tights needed.

4 pair Injinji tsoks

1 Buff – a very cute print – for warmth at night and to wrap the head in sandstorms

Thongs - 1 pair pink, cheap, light plastic

Watch - HighGear Axis– with Altimeter, Barometer, Compass, Temperature, Time, Alarm, Chronograph – the perfect light bundle of useful information for this type of adventure.

Gaiters – CRITICAL piece of gear. Modified version of the Outdoor Research Flex-Tex Gaiter—extending the lower part of the Gaiter to cover the entire shoe upper. The Gaiter will attach to the shoe with Velcro that is sewn onto the shoe upper, thus the entire shoe upper will be covered as well as my ankle and lower leg. These Gaiters are lycra and fit snug on the ankle—so NO rubbing (swoosh noise) on the other shoe from excess fabric (a running noise pet peeve of mine.)

3 water bottles: 2 handheld Amphipod bottles as well as 1 Ultimate Direction large capacity bottle with a long tube to sip from (the Ultimate bottle and one of the handhelds will sit in the side mesh pouches on my pack).

2 gel flasks – for Carbo Pro and Perpetuem

Lip sunscreen – Dermatone SPF 23 – stays on longer than most.

Sunscreen – ProTech SPF 30. Non-greasy – doesn’t make you feel claustrophobic when hot. I’ll take sample packets so that I can throw wrappers away each day to eliminate excess weight.

Drug Bag: Advil, Aleve, Cipro, Voltaren (lower back security blanket), Pepto Bismol tabs.

Part of a Nalgene bottle (the top half sawed off). For tea, coffee, soup, hot food.

1 lightweight backpacking spoon

Wet Wipes – 3 per day. These are for daily “showering”

Toothbrush – handle sawed in half

Toothpaste – very small tube

Dental Floss – can’t sleep if I don’t floss – also comes in handy if I need to sew anything – a length wrapped around a chopped off pencil

Duct Tape – a few feet or so wrapped around the above chopped off pencil

Sony Cyber-shot – slim/light digital camera with an extra charged battery

Earplugs – silicon

Paper to write on

Pen

Favorite pair of running earrings

2 favorite necklaces, favorite bracelet

½ a comb

3 hair ties and a barrette

Money – goes a loooooong way for anything in any country

Picture of Gryphon (my dog and favorite running buddy)

A few good jokes

Racing the Planet

You’re Racing WHERE?!

While interacting casually with friends, acquaintances, or fellow multi-sport athletes, conversation can often lead to upcoming events or trips. Throughout this conversation theme, over many years of racing and extensive travel, I’ve executed a loose, unofficial, sociology ethnography—noticing others reactions to my events of choice. While preparing for my most recent project—a 150-mile, self-supported, running race across the Sahara Desert in Egypt, the responses have been noteworthy.

If I happen to share that I have a triathlon looming, I get a reaction of excitement with a sense of connection and well wishes from fellow endurance warriors. With the advent of triathlon in the Olympics as well as the growing international strip mall of $500 Ironman events available to anyone willing to whip out their credit card and quickly sign up online, triathlon has become a familiar, admired, privileged, and accepted event.

A declaration of my participation in an upcoming adventure race, reasonable mountain climb, or multi-day training session in some beautiful and coveted spot such as Yosemite, may prompt a response of respect and endorsement with an essence of envy. The perception is that these types of activities have a sexy feel to them—challenging and aesthetic with enough off-the-beaten-path to give one a feeling of wholesome adventure. Conceivably, since adventure brings us back to the roots of our nation and even further to the evolution of our species, it is coveted and connected with by even the armchair wanna-be.

And then there’s ultrarunning…

Stating to a non-ultrarunner that I have a single or multi-day, very long, off-road race, provokes a response of strained intrigue with a hint of revulsion—always attached to a facial grimace. Perhaps it’s the flashbacks to days of forced running in high-school gym class sporting Converse All-Stars, the pain of that last trail invoked ankle sprain or the fear of getting chewed on by a mountain lion.

When offering that I’ll be running for 100+ miles, I often receive uninformed responses like: “Do you get to sleep?” “Doesn’t that hurt?” or, “I have a tough time driving my car for 100 miles, let alone running!” These comments may be coupled with a look of pity for my being housed within my insane mind for the duration.

Running really far escapes warrior status and the sexy adventure list. Instead it elicits thoughts of plain old pain and suffering.


Racing the Planet, the Sahara Desert, Egypt

Given my sociology project results thus far, I well imagined the responses I would invoke when declaring my upcoming venture—the Racing the Planet, 7-day, 150-mile, semi-self supported, running stage race across the Sahara Desert in Egypt: “Isn’t Egypt in the ‘bad’ part of the world?!!” or, “There’s a lot of sand and wind out there—you cool with that?” In efforts to throw salt on my event of choice I’ve had some folks try and stir the one emotion that tends to drive most socially constructed folks these days—fear. “What if you get kidnapped or shot by insurgents in the desert—what will you do then?”

And I respond, “I suppose at that point my race would be over.”

Yet in successful attempts to connect with their inherent adventurous souls, I’ve shared that the race finishes at the pyramids in Cairo. Thoughts of being a tourist cruising the Sphinx, the Great Pyramid or power shopping the local Souq in a complex civilization dating back to 2500 B.C. softens the details of my mode of arrival.

To most, the Sahara brings initial visions of endless sand dunes, heat and camels. With a flip through a reasonable travel book one finds that this area of North Eastern Africa is geographically quite diverse. Random rifts in the earth have allowed springs to well up in this massive desert region. These permit vegetation to thrive and are often habitats, or Oasis’s for indigenous nomadic folks—the Bedouin and Berber peoples. Over thousands of years the wind and sand have carved rock formations that liken ancient art exhibits. The Sahara is a thriving environment of diverse color and at night the skies are the most star-packed on the planet.

Sharing this information with doubting outsiders seems to lighten their visions of me trudging along in extreme heat and wind with seven days of provisions housed in a very small pack on my back.

Starting September 25th, we’ll run anywhere from 10-50 miles each day for six of seven days. Each night the event organization will provide a base camp and tents for 100 athletes, from all over the world. They will also provide water for our journey. We’ve been given a small list of mandatory gear, which includes a minimum of 2,000 calories per day. The strategy involved in choosing ultra-light gear, clothing and food for this event is a huge draw for me, as well as living with my choices for seven days, in a hostile environment.

Stay tuned this week for a detailed food and gear list for my race.

I’m looking forward to sharing this adventure with you all as I send daily dispatches to MountainZone.com--I’ll be back at you from the desert…